Leeds to Rye, East Sussex - 4 nights in Summer
Itinerary At A Glance
4 night independent itinerary for Rye, East Sussex - on the south coast of England, right on the border with Kent
Based on driving from Yorkshire in July
Highlights include a visit to Bodiam Castle, cycling the gorgeous green-and-rolling countryside through pretty and historic towns and villages, and tour and tasting at an English vineyard
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Why here?
The town of Rye itself was what drew me to plan this trip; its distinction lies in being a medieval coastal merchant town that got rich through its being a member of the confederation of Cinque Ports from the 12th to the 15th century. This group of towns across nowadays Kent and East Sussex were granted the local profits of justice in return for providing and maintaining ships ready for English Crown use in case of need, principally in defence of invasion or attack by Danish or French forces. This role of maintaining defence contingents for the realm of England came with some benefits, namely some tax exemptions and a level of self-government and self-jurisdiction. In addition, their being ports meant trade and mercantile activities, which typically lead to wealth generation. Rye has maintained much of its quaint and meandering medieval architecture and reinvented itself as a tourist destination.
Did I enjoy the holiday? Does the place live up to expectations?
This area of the UK doesn’t seem to get any attention as a possible holiday region but I can truly attest that this is a gorgeous part of the UK, ideally suited to a long break with all the makings of a great spot for a holiday. We found idyllic countryside, history-aplenty, unique architecture, some marvellous eateries, and well-surfaced and quiet roads (and many singletrack lanes) that were ideal for cycling. It felt peaceful, affluent, with plenty to do and not at all thronged with tourists.
Now, despite it being the original focus of the trip, having been, I wouldn’t advise planning a whole trip around spending time in Rye itself and I’m glad we didn’t in the end; instead, we treated the town as one other quaint little destination for a day trip - it really is tiny and I couldn’t see why you would need more than a day here, tops. What I would recommend is choosing to stay somewhere in the countryside around Rye because it is just so darn lovely.
Would I make another visit?
Yes - a great choice for a summer staycation and I could see us returning, not exactly to this location, but to the wider region of Kent and East Sussex.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Yes - 4 days is an ideal length of time to explore the area, for a relaxed mix of biking, history, food and relaxation.
Itinerary Details
TRAVEL MEANS
Driving from Yorkshire took 5hr 45mins
It is a long distance, but that really contributed to the feeling of ‘going on holiday’ for me
ACCOMMODATION
Oast House - buildings designed and used for for kilning (drying) hops as part of the brewing process. They can be found in most hop-growing (and former hop-growing) areas and many have now been converted to houses - they are very distinctive and all over this region and not found much in other parts of the UK.
This was a delightful little self-contained annex, perfectly proportioned for a couple, and a chance to stay in something quite traditional (low ceilings, stone walls, exposed beams, walled garden etc.) without having to hire out a large property - which is usually the case for this type of accom. It was outside of Rye by about a 7 minute drive, but this suited us just fine, as it was easily cyclable both by road or using the National Cycle Network Route 2 which was just behind the house.
As an example of staying somewhere very much ‘of its place’, which is usually my preference, this ticked all the boxes.
FOOD
Had some excellent bottled Belgian beers at The Outside Inn in central Rye
Dined at Tatners Street Kitchen in Rye - very modern casual dinery serving up the current on-trend American-style goodies like slow-cooked meats in buns, dirty fries, hotdogs and the like. Easy, tasty and atmospheric
Had breakfast at Tibbs ‘Pick Your Own’ Farm - just up the road, a berry farm with pick-your-own soft fruits (which were right in season when we were there), and a lovely cafe with a superb view over the valley below. Highly recommended for a snacky breakfast or coffee and cake
Ate at Tillingham - in their restaurant. This was a tasting menu, with much sourced from their own kitchen garden. Absolutely superb food, in a gorgeous dining setting with great views
For supplies, we shopped at both Jempsons and Rye Deli - both great examples of local food retailers offering great produce
ACTIVITIES
Visited Bodiam Castle (30 min drive or 1hr 15m cycle from Rye) – an archetypal 14th century moated castle with ruined interior - a glimpse of medieval splendour
Cycled around Bedgebury National Pinetum & Forest – 8 mile red singletrack route
Wandered around Rye itself
Took in the sights on the bikes, following (most of) this Sustrans route: 20-mile Rye and Winchelsea Circular. A fairly challenging route on a mountain bike, with plenty of ups and downs for a physical challenge, and predominantly done on single-track country lanes. Very do-able on a hybrid or road bike also
Did a Vineyard Tour & Wine Tasting at Tillingham (20 min drive from Rye), a young and lively bio-dynamic vineyard just outside of Rye. Along with dinner at their superb restaurant, this was one of the highlights of our trip. I am no wine connoisseur, but still fascinating to attend their tasting event and learn more about their wines, English wines, the winemaking process and how they are attempting some radical practices in the pursuit of making great wine. Apparently, this area has quite a few vineyards, and is becoming known for production of excellent light and delicate sparkling wine - we certainly enjoyed it
Lessons Learnt for me
I have said it before and I will say it again - 4 nights, Monday to Friday is a superb option for a staycation - feels like a full week off work, long enough to truly escape the daily routine and relax, but short enough that it doesn’t feel like overmuch in a place that is still essentially home
Ideas for another visit
Have breakfast, lunch, or dinner at The Fig in Central Rye
Sissinghurst Castle Garden - a world-renowned garden
Walking tour of Rye's Huguenot history using the Geotourist app.
Cycle around Bewel Water (13 miles) - round reservoir route is open to cyclists, horses and walkers and is made up of forest paths, surfaced trails, country lanes and meadows
Visit Farley’s House & Gallery - former home of Lee Miller and Roland Penrose; Pablo Picasso stayed in 1950, and Max Ernst, Joan Miró, Man Ray, Leonora Carrington and Dorothea Tanning visited from overseas whilst Eileen Agar, Kenneth Armitage, William Turnbull, John Craxton and Richard Hamilton formed the British contingent. Works by many of these artists are displayed in the house in a selection that regularly changes as items are loaned to exhibitions in galleries around the world
Picnic on Camber Sands – a stretch of pale sand with a backdrop of massive dunes.
Visit Great Dixter House – home of gardening writer and general place of pilgrimage for anyone interested in horticulture
Take a steam train through the Weald aboard the Kent & East Sussex Railway, travelling in the style of the steam train era. There are normally two steam hauled departures per Saturday & Sunday:
The morning departure leaves Tenterden at 10:40am and arrives at Bodiam at 11:30am. It then departs Bodiam at approximately 11:45am, arriving back in Tenterden at 12:32pm.
The afternoon departure leaves Tenterden at 1:15pm, arrives at Bodiam at 2:00pm, before departing at approximately 2:15pm, arriving back in Tenterden at 3:07pm.
For a more established vineyard, visit Chapel Down
Tastes of the British Isles
