Leeds to Småland, Sweden: a leisure cycling and off-road biking travel itinerary
Why Småland?
Research for this trip started with a friend, who ran an ultra-marathon around the island archipelago of Stockholm, extolling the virtues and beauties of this region. So I set a-looking for a possible trip to Sweden.
Turns out, the archipelago around Stockholm is famed for its beautiful maze of waterways and islands, peppered with second homes and cabins owned by city residents in pretty coastal towns for weekend trips and outdoor activities. While stunning, the many islands often means travel by boat and my other half gets badly seasick so I started to rule it out……………but Sweden looked too much like the exact kind of place I like to holiday, so I continued doggedly researching.
Gothenburg, Värmland, Lake Vänern, Öland………on and on I went, looking at places to stay and things to do, trying to spot the one that just seemed to tick all our boxes……….until a chance stumble had me in Småland and that set my tail wagging.
It is a land of deep forests, sparkling lakes and teensy cities punching above their weight with foodie and cultural scenes to rival that of larger urban centres. There are proper MTB facilities at various trail centres around the region. Other fun facts include that IKEA grew from being a small mail order company in the forests of Småland to the global phenomenon it is now, and between Växjö and Kalmar on the coast is the famed ‘Kingdom of Crystal’ - a string of glass-blowing communities reinvigorated, revitalised and turned into a unique tourist destination. Many describe this place as all of Sweden in miniature.
Itinerary At A Glance
7 night independent itinerary for Småland in southern Sweden
Based on flying in and out of Gothenburg from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam. Car will also be essential to move between locations
Highlights include biking the countryside, outdoor forest dining, experiencing the traditions of the glassblowing villages and some art locations celebrating the Swede’s famed sensitivity to, and celebration of, good design
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Itinerary Details
WHEN
June or July
For the driest, warmest and lightest months, but I would still plan for mixed weather.
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds into Gothenburg, changing in Amsterdam
This trip will also require car hire for the entirety of the trip, along with bike hire which is capable of handling gravel surfaces
ACCOMMODATION
To make the most of the weather, the views and the outdoorsy nature of this trip, a traditional Swedish summer house - ferienhaus - would be my top pick ideally with some outdoor space. Either Gränna, Jönköping, or the stretch of land between them would make a good base. In order of preference:
Gorgeous and modern ferienhaus on the edge of a small lake between Jönköping and Växjö
Apartment in a listed building in Gränna, overlooking Lake Vättern
Modern countryside ferienhaus between Jönköping and Växjö
Apartment on the Smålandsgården estate in Gränna
IMPORTANT NOTE FOR BOOKING! Summer accommodation in the Swedish countryside books up very very quickly - note that its is also very common for self-catering homes to only allow a minimum of a 1 week stay, and not uncommon for them to enforce a 2 week minimum stay. This is a holiday where you will need to plan well in advance and get booking.
SCHEDULE
Day 1 - arrive
Try to arrive in the morning
Day 2 - biking Visingsö Island on Lake Vättern and explore Gränna
In the morning. head to Visingsö Island to bike the 25 km island perimeter path which takes between 2 and 3 hours. Lush oak forests and farmland co-exist on Visingsö, and along the way are several possibilities for a picnic break. More info found here
Explore the town of Gränna in the afternoon and stay for dinner
Day 3 - Experience the Crystal Kingdom (Glasriket in Swedish)
The Glass Kingdom is a cluster of villages between the cities of Kalmar and Växjö, which has been the centre of the country’s world-renowned glassblowing community since 1742. There is the Kosta Boda Art Gallery, designed by Bruno Mathsson in the early 1950s. At the Glassworks in Målerås, you can have a go at glassmaking, wander the walking/biking path and, most excitingly, partake in a traditional ‘hot shop herring’ evening meal (hyttsill in Swedish). Hyttsill evenings date back to the days when the glassworks acted as a focal point for the local community – an after-hours meeting place for workers, hunters from the surrounding forest and, not least, wandering tramps. When the glassblowers go home for the day, long tables are set up in the glassworks and the chef fries salted herring in the cooling pipe – where earlier in the day, finished glassware has been slowly cooled down. He brings trays of crispy bacon and isterband sausages to the table. Jacket potatoes, genuine Småland ostkaka pudding. Glasses are filled with chilled beer from the basement… Soon, the singing creates a warm atmosphere in the smeltery
Day 4 - biking Åsnen National Park and dinner in Växjö
About 40 minutes south of Växjö, is the Åsnen National Park, the newest in Sweden. Spend the day cycling its lanes, forests and lakesides, using this helpful site for inspiration on routes
Have dinner in Växjö, whose culinary scene rivals that of any larger city. Five of its restaurants are featured in the White Guide (Scandinavia’s leading restaurant guide), and the hotel/restaurant PM & Vänner was awarded a Michelin star for its modern take on Småland cuisine.
Day 5 - long day ride loop from Jönköping to Bunn and back
90km round trip on quiet country roads, this loop apparently takes you through some of loveliest countryside, into the famed village of Bunn, and back into Jönköping. Budget for 6-7 hours on the bike with more info here.
Day 6 - foraging and forest dining
Make a booking at one Smaland’s Edible Country Tables using this guide for what to forage from the Sweden countryside
Day 7 - long day ride loop between along the southern edge of Lake Vättern
70km round trip through the apple orchards and country lanes between Jönköping and Gränna
Day 8 - final breakfast and head home
Have one final breakfast of coffee and kanelbulle (cinnamon bun)
Try to leave in the afternoon
Back-up plans for rainy days
Longest zipline in Europe at Little Rock Lake
Visit the IKEA Museum in Älmhult, on the central southern border of the region
Take an Elf Safari at Grönåsen Elk and Livestock Park
Visit Vandalorum Art & Design Museum in Varnamo (between Jönköping & Växjö)
FOOD AND DRINK - SPECIALITIES & CUSTOMS
Isterband (pork, barley and potato sausage) with pickled beetroot and dill-stewed potatoes is a classic Småland dish.
Other Summer Stuff
