Leeds to Warsaw: an off-season, independent city break itinerary for Winter
Why Warsaw?
My reasons for even considering planning a trip to Warsaw are a collection of slightly random and unconnected recommendations; one, Paul Hollywood wrote about it in one of his baking books as an excellent destination for baked goods and well, it just struck a chord. Two, the Telegraph ran a piece about how the city is emerging as a hot foodie destination. Three, Poland is always up there as an excellent value-for-money destination - always nice. Four, Lonely Planet’s Where To Visit When: Europe recommended Białowieża Forest as a place to visit during the winter and Warsaw was stated at the closest airport so it prompted thoughts of a city break. Maybe the team responsible for marketing Poland as a destination have done their job well and I’ve just been suckered into the spin, but whatever.
So this is what led me to do some research and I found plenty to make me believe a trip to Warsaw would be as good a choice as any for a European city break. I found interesting eateries in a cuisine I know very little about, tours and museums to experience the unique Polish history and heritage (spanning WW2, royalty, Communism and Judaism), modern and buzzy cultural experiences, and all at very reasonable prices. Top that off with the fact that this isn’t a mainstream place to visit for the average Brit (if visiting Poland at all, most head for Krakow) and I am sold.
Itinerary At A Glance
3 night independent itinerary for Warsaw in central Poland
Based on flying in and out of Warsaw from Leeds with a hop in Amsterdam.
Highlights include touring the city in a Communist-era Fiat 126p, experiencing the annual Royal Garden of Light exhibition at the ‘Polish Versailles’ Wilanow Palace, enjoying Warsaw’s new and revived baking culture, and some cross-country skiing in one of the parks outside of Warsaw.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and active pursuits, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Annual Royal Garden of Light exhibition at Royal Palace at Wilanów
Itinerary
WHEN
January
January is, on average, the coldest month with harshly cold weather and the highest likelihood for snow, so I have made the itinerary with this in mind, focusing on indoor activities and those which can be done come rain, snow or shine.
This is an unusual time to visit but will see the city at its winteriest, see the Royal Garden of Light in the winter dark and better experience the warming effects of Polish vodka.
TRAVEL MEANS
KLM, from Leeds Bradford to Warsaw, changing in Amsterdam
ACCOMMODATION
H15 Boutique Hotel, in the Suite or Prestige Suite - this kind of quality is usually outside of my budget but not in Poland!
Smack-bang in Warsaw’s Old Town, a beautiful and very highly recommended duplex in a Gothic building
Petite and perfectly-formed little apartment for 2
Luxe and highly-modern apartment in the business district
SCHEDULE
Day 1
Try to arrive in the morning
Visit the Polin Museum - documents the history of Polish Jews
Do a food tour with Warsaw Behind the Scenes - travelling in a vintage minibus
Day 2
Attend a cookery class with Polish Your Cooking - The classes take place every Wednesday and Saturday at 10.30 am and every Friday at 6.00 pm
Get to know more about the history of Warsaw and what it was like under the communist regime with a self-drive tour in a Communist-era Fiat 126p (being an all-round car enthusiast, my boyfriend would love this) with WPT1313 Tours
Have dinner at Hala Koszyki Market - Located in an Art Nouveau market hall, it combines a day food market, a night street food market, a and event space all under one roof. Supposedly a hit with locals and is open every weekend from 8am until 1am.
See some live music at the bar underneath the National Opera of Poland’s Grand Theatre
A winter dawn view from the Vistula River
Day 3
Try cross-country skiing in Powsin Park. You can rent equipment in many places. Read more here.
Visit the Royal Palace at Wilanów, in particular, to see the Royal Garden of Lights at night
Book a table for dinner at Rozbrat20, as recommended by the Michelin Travel Guide
Day 4
For breakfast, get real bread from Piwonski Bakery at the Restaurant Femina , Al. Jana Pawła II 38 (Opening hours Mon - Fri: 7.00 - 20.00, Sat: 7.30-15.00)
Wander around Śródmieście - both Old and New Town
Leave in the afternoon
ABOUT WARSAW’S NEIGHBOURHOODS
Warsaw is a rough oval, bissected north-to-south by the Vistula river. The main neighbourhoods are as follows:
Śródmieście - beside the Vistula River, the heart and centre, both Old and New Town. The most central district in Warsaw, Śródmieście is the financial, commercial and cultural centre of the city and boasts the tallest buildings, the most important museums, galleries, restaurants, and theatres. On the west bank of the river runs the Vistulan Boulevard, a contemporary promenade dotted with waterside bars and cafes - not to be missed for a stroll and a bite to eat as you people-watch
Wola - highly urbanized commercial area with lots of skyscrapers. It used to be an industrial district and today is where many multinational corporations have decided to base their offices - as such, many residential buildings have popped up alongside in the form of modern flats. Highly accessible place to stay as an alternative to Śródmieście
Mokotów, Żoliborz and Ochota - all three of these are green, tranquil, and quite fashionable residential districts in easy reach of the city centre, some of the most desirable places to actually live in the city. Not loads and loads to see for a tourist, but one option is Królikarnia in the Mokotów district - a palace and a park for a stroll (and a picnic or icecream in warm weather)
Praga Północ (Praga North) and Praga Południe (Praga South) - Located on the east bank of the Vistula River, the Praga district is the only location in Warsaw where the buildings have remained untouched by the war. This part of the city still has a very bad reputation among many Varsovians because in the past this was a very dangerous and poor area of the city (its nickname was The Bermuda Triangle). Nowadays, especially on its southern side, this district is becoming the home to its alternative, avantgarde culture, a trendy hotspot in Warsaw, with art galleries, artists’ ateliers, cool restaurants, and pubs. However charming and vibrant, this is still the district with the highest unemployment rate and the poorest population, so at least a little care should be taken.
Wilanów - A district far outside the centre of Warsaw, it is famous for its baroque palace, the Wilanów Palace, which is sometimes referred to as the Polish Versailles. Other than this, it features large, wild, underdeveloped areas which allows for outdoor activities such as biking, golf, and kayaking along the Vistula.
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