Leeds to Belgian Ardennes and France - 14 nights in Summer
Why here?
This was our very first trip taking our car from Leeds across into Europe, and so, to make this introductory experience as easy as possible, we chose to make the driving the least onerous we could by not venturing too far into the continent.
Northern Europe is a lovely place to spend the summer; verdant, warm, buzzing with the life of festivals and outdoorsing often denied to us in the colder, wetter months. Throughout this region, there is a palpable excitement that summer is here, and a determinedness to enjoy it while we can.
The Kingdom of Belgium is divided into three regions: Flanders to the north, Wallonia to the south, and Brussels somewhere in the middle. The Flemish north is flatter, very industrial, coastal, and culturally more aligned with their Dutch neighbours whereas the Walloon region to the south is inland, forested, hilly, somewhat rural and French-speaking, more closely connected to their French neighbours to the west. We chose Wallonia for the forest, the cycling and the beer.
Reims, in the Champagne region on France’s Grand-Est, servs as a useful waypoint between Belgium and the next stop in the Loire Valley. The city is small, historic, easygoing and surrounded by champagne vineyards and caves for tasting. Counter to all this, we used Reims as the base to visit the ghostly remains of an F1 race track just outside the city.
The Loire Valley is the land of river and chateaux, famously ‘flat’ for easygoing riding through its wonderfully verduous countryside. The riding is breathtakingly beautiful, and the roads incredibly quiet; and to give substance to your rides, there are ample towns, villages, markets, chateaux, vineyards and culture to enjoy hereabouts.
As is well-documented, much of Normandy is the site where World War II was waged, in particular the liberation of France from German occupation, and many locations maintain this link through tourist experiences to understand this bloody era in Europe’s history. It isn’t the only thing that is worth a visit however, since the Bayeux Tapestry is located in Normandy, and it is the home of French Impressionism, cider and apple brandy, coastal walks along white chalk cliffs and equestrian pursuits like polo and dressage.
Every location on this trip offers excellent biking opportunities, whether that’s leisurely pootles or long-distance leg-burners, there are plenty of sights and scenery to fill several days’ worth of riding.
Itinerary At A Glance
14 night independent touring itinerary for Belgium and France, taking a coast-to-coast route starting in Rotterdam, finishing in Cherbourg
Based on driving from Leeds, with bikes, using ferry transport from Hull to Rotterdam, back into the UK from Cherbourg
Highlights include Belgian beer, a cycle ride through water, visiting the ghostly remains of an F1 race track from the 1960s, cycling the river-strewn landscape of the Loire Valley, picnic at Chateau de L’Islette, The Bayeaux Tapestry, and D-Day museum at Arromanches-les-Bains.
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely outdoor and cultural activities, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Honest verdict
Did I enjoy the holiday? Does the place live up to expectations?
One of the very best holidays we have ever taken, ever. I don’t think it is possible for France to disappoint, such is the density of loveliness, culture and history, but Belgium was an unexpected surprise, totally exceeding our expectations in every way.
Did the itinerary work for the trip?
Perfectly. Not too much driving, but enough to cover some real distance between place to place. Travelling in the car this way, we also got to see parts of Holland, Belgium and France that we would probably never visit if it meant making a dedicated holiday there.
Would I make another visit?
Certainly - with the exception of Champagne region. While we had a good time there, this was my least favourite spot, but Belgium, Loire Valley and Normandy held so much appeal, with many more options for a visit than we could fit into this trip.
Itinerary Details
WHEN
July
Very warm and sunny was what we experienced for the full two weeks, though I was prepared for some occasional overcast or rainy days which failed to come.
LIGHT & WEATHER
Long days, likely warm to hot
Sunrise: 06:01am to 06:33am
Sunset: 22:10pm to 21:42pm
15-16 hours of daylight
TRAVEL MEANS
Ferry from Hull into Rotterdam, and out of Cherbourg into Poole
We obviously took our car for the entirety of this trip (it would be impossible without it) as well as road bikes attached with a carrier.
ROUTE & STOPS
Drive 1,407 km, 16 hours, over 14 days
Ferry Hull into Rotterdam (overnight crossing); drive to Belgian Ardennes for a 3 night stay; stop off at Delft for breakfast and Genk for Ride Thru The Water
Drive from Belgian Ardennes to Reims (Champagne region) for a 2 night stay
Drive from Reims to Loire Valley for a 5 night stay; stop off at Montargis along the way
Drive from Loire Valley to Caen; stop off at Le Mans along the way
Ferry Cherbourg to Poole; drive back to Yorkshire
Image of full route with all stops
ACCOMMODATION
Reims
Centrally located, clean, modern, large apartment. Only issue was a lack of parking and note that Reims operates a Low Emission Zone, for which you need to have a permit before you arrive in France.
Loire Valley
Idyllic. Large kitchen, private outdoor area, ample space for two, fairly rurally located in quick and easy access to the quiet country lanes perfect for road cycling with space in the hallway for bikes. Recommended.
near Caen
Garage-turned-holiday let, this was a lovely little compact space in a residential village on the outskirts of Caen, with a bakery and pizza restaurant in town. Ideal for cycling, with space in the hallway for bikes. Recommended.
SCHEDULE
Rotterdam to Belgian Ardennes - Day 1 to 4
Had breakfast in Delft - it was glorious. To my mind, nowhere on earth does ‘cute town’ like the Dutch, and Delft is no exception. Sat by the canal on a warm Monday morning, enjoying Roze koek and Gevulde koek alongside a good coffee, and watched the town come gently to life.
Stopped off in Genk to Ride-Thru-The-Water and made use of the excellent Points-Noeuds system
Cycled around the Belgian Ardennes, using Visit Wallonia for downloadable .gpx routes. Note that the most southern parts of the Wallonia region make for very arduous and extreme cycling, whereas the section bordering Flanders is more moderately hilly.
Dined at miniature little bistro, Ardelle, in Rochefort
Day 5 - Drive between Belgian Ardennes & Reims
Stocked up on beer before we left Belgium.
About 165km, 2hrs driving
Reims - Day 5 to 6
Cycled from Reims out to the abandoned Formula 1 circuit, Reims-Gueux, whose orginal structures including the grandstands, pit buildings and timing tower, still stand today and are preserved as historical landmarks and maintained by local enthusiasts. Eerie and magical, a perfect destination for a road ride before making our way to the more known pastoral landscapes of the Champagne villages and then routing back into Reims
Day 7 - Drive between Reims & Loire Valley
To break up the long drive, we stopped at Montargis for coffee, cake and a leg stretch. This isn’t a place to go out of your way to visit, but was a decently cute town with plenty of life and options for coffee and baked goods.
About 480km, 5hr 30mins driving
Day 7 to 11 - Loire Valley
Picnic’d with live music at Chateau de L'Islette - a highlight of the stay. This place is fairytale stuff, with the River Indre meandering through the grounds, bridges, lawns and billowing flora. On Fridays and Saturdays throughout July and August, you can buy tickets for their open air picnic with live music; just turn up with your loved ones, blankets, food and drink to enjoy the evening.
62km ride taking in Azay-le-Rideau, Langeais and Villandry - Langeais is a picturesque town right on the banks of the Loire and is well worth a stop. There is a market on a Sunday morning that is worth making your destination.
57 km ride taking in Loches, Montrésor and Chedigny - the ‘village-garden’ of Chedigny is a particularly worthwhile waypoint for a road ride
54km ride to see Rivarennes……funny place this, bit of a ghost town really, clinging deperately to the heritage craft of drying pears
Day 12 - Drive between Loire Valley & Caen
We made sure to route through Le Mans to drive the Mulsanne Straight, Inidianapolis and Arnage Corners (all of which is public road when not on a race day)
About 270km, 2hr 45mins driving
Day 12 to 14 - near Caen
Visited Bayeux Tapestry - for me, the absolute highlight of our trip. It is hard to believe this article of history is 1000 years old. It is vast and precious and magical, exhibited wonderfully well and with a very useful audio guide that made me feel like I was in a fantasy novel. Unlike most tourist destinations of this repute, we waited hardly any time to buy tickets and enter, and as an added bonus, Bayeux the town is also utterly adorable - well worth a patisserie stop. We did so at La Pâtisserie de Guillaume.
Visited the D-Day Museum at Arromanches-les-Bains - recently opened to tell the tale of Operation Overlord, and in particular, how Allied Forces built and erected a ‘floating port’ off the coast of Arromanches-les-Bains to faciltate the D-Day landings and ongoing supply of men, supplies and equipment for the re-taking of France.
Cycled to the Merville Gun Battery through Pegasus Bridge - historically important, Pegasus Bridge was the first bridge to be liberated following D-Day landings on June 6th 1944
Day 15 - Drive between Caen & Cherbourg
About 130km, 1hr 30mins driving
Ideas for another visit
Visit Dieppe market, voted best in France in 2020
Take a factory-workshop tour of Bohin, last surviving pin and needle manufacturer in France, located in the Orne department in Normandy
Visit Les Jardins d’Étretat - Clinging close to the cliff, the gardens at Etretat are a poetic mix of landscape and sculpture known as “land-art.”
Visit The Sculpture Garden at the Château de Bois-Guilbert
Dine at Le Goéland 1951, a seasonal restaurant and bar (open during the high season) in a converted bunker from the war on the edge of a peninsula with breath taking views on the sea.
From spring to autumn along the sea front at Le Havre there’s a host of pop-up bars and restaurants, some of which have a view right on the sea.
Swim in the sea water swimming pool, plage du Plat Gousset in Granville
Swim in the Bains des Docks in Le Havre, designed by reputed French architect Jean Nouvel - this 5000 square metre aquatic centre comprises 12 pools, including a 50 x 21 metre outdoor pool, several leisure pools, a sauna, steam room, spa and fitness room.
Dieppe’s outdoor swimming pool offers views of castle and limestone cliffs
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