Leeds to Swedish West Coast: an independent travel itinerary for leisure cycling and hiking
Why the Swedish West Coast?
The entirety of Sweden’s coastline is both vast and varied - there are rocky granite coasts, deep sand-dune backed beaches of fine golden sand, vast island archipelagos of islands, islets and skerries connected to the mainland by bridges or chain ferries, forests right up to the coast, high cliffs, even inland lakes the size of inland seas. Just off the coast there are deep forests and meandering lanes amid a patchwork of meadows and farms.
The West Coast of Sweden has Gothenburg (Sweden’s second largest city, and home of Volvo) as the major urban base, but outside of that there is plenty of nature, both wild and tamed, for outdoor exploring, either on two wheels or on two feet. This is the summer playground of many a-Swede but not often visited by folks from the UK, so naturally, I feel like a jammy bugger, excited to be discovering something so authentically Swedish.
The Halland province is just south of Gothenburg, and is best known to those who love the beach and the surf; the sands are golden and powdery and the dunes are high. Built on the River Nissan, Halmstad is Halland province’s biggest town, a port, a university town and also a cycling hotspot. It is the starting point of Kattegattleden – Sweden’s very first national cycling trail as well as an abundance of other trails to explore much of its beautiful countryside, on foot or by bike. This coastal town regularly features on Reseguiden’s list of top summer towns, alongside its Halland neighbours of Varberg and Falkenberg. In addition to all this, the region boasts many farms and food producers, so draws the crowd who appreciate the farm-to-table experience.
Just north of Gothenburg is the Bohuslän archipelago, which stretches all the way up to the border with Norway. This coastal region is quite unique with a smooth rocky granite shoreline, and plenty of on-the-water activities like boating and kayaking, owing to its patchwork of tiny islets and waterways. Little painted waterside cottages form small fishing villages that dot the coast and serve as a reminder of Sweden’s long fishing history but now operate as summer towns alive with hustle and bustle in the holiday months.
Itinerary At A Glance
12 night independent itinerary for Halmstad in Halland province and Orust island on Bohuslän coast
Based on flying from Leeds into Gothenburg, with a hop in Amsterdam
Highlights include DIY outdoor dining in one of the Edible Country tables, Bronze Age rock carvings, biking the famous Kattegattelden coastal trail, live open-air music in central Halmstad, hiking and sauna on the Bohuslän islands, and plenty of fresh seafood at restaurants with seaviews
Based on a couple travelling, with a focus on leisurely cultural activities and biking, interspersed with time to just relax and soak up the atmosphere
Itinerary Details
WHEN
Late June/early July
Driest, warmest and lightest months, but I would still plan for mixed weather.
Note also that, outside the major urban centres, many of the summer homes, tourist attractions, ferry routes and eateries are only operational May to September, so visiting outside of these times is a very different (and probably trickier) prospect.
TRAVEL MEANS
Leeds to Gothenburg with a hop in Amsterdam, flying with KLM
Car will also be essential to move between locations, as well as road or hybrid bike hire for the entirety of the stay in Halmstad
ACCOMMODATION
Bohuslän Coast
Gorgeous and modern coastal home with incredible views out to sea from the deck
Spectacular architect’s home with sea views
Delightful wooden coastal home with jetty into the water
Halmstad/Halland province
Cosy and luxurious villa on the outskirts of Halmstad
Gorgeous traditional Swedish summer house in the countryside outside Halmstad
Lovely villa with plenty of garden space
High-end crisp and modern minimalist summer villa outside Halmstad
SCHEDULE
Halmstad in Halland province - Day 1 to 7
Day 1 - arrive
Try to arrive in the morning; drive to Halmstad from Gothenburg
Collect Bike Rental from Rent-A-Bike Halmstad
Day 2 - biking and dinner at a vineyard
Pick a section of the Kattegattelden cycle trail using this extremely handy and comprehensive website to the trail, with an option to download the GPX files.
Book in to ÄNG restaurant on the Ästad Vingård in Halland County. Recently awarded both 1 Michelin Star and a Michelin Green Star - first introduced in 2020, the Michelin Green Star is an annual award which highlights restaurants at the forefront of the industry when it comes to their sustainable practices
Day 3 - biking
Pick a section of the Kattegattelden cycle trail using this extremely handy and comprehensive website to the trail, with an option to download the GPX files.
Day 4 - explore Halmstad
Spend an afternoon in Halmstad, using this self-guided history walk as my rough guide - its only in Swedish but nice to have a paper copy for a bit of slow-ways pathfinding
Stop in for lunch or fika at Söderfamiljen in central Halmstad for a view over the river
Visit the Halland Art Museum or Mjellby Art Museum, to get to know a little more about artists in the region
Day 5 - biking and visit Falkenberg
Pick a section of the Kattegattelden cycle trail which includes Falkenberg and explore the town as part of the route
A visit to one of Sweden’s Edible Country tables is a must, at Falkenberg, Halland. Read more about the Edible Country here
Day 6 - SUP/fat bike tour and local beer tasting
SUP tour down the river to the sea, or a beach fat-bike tour, with Kitekalle (note the website is only in Swedish)
Do a local beer tasting on Friday or Saturday nights at Halmstad Brygghus
Day 7 - hiking and outdoor music in Halmstad
Gourmet Hike tour with Viator
Spend an evening at Rotundan in Norre Katts Park in central Halmstad, with street food options with a musical performance from their cultural program
Back up plans for rainy days
Take a guided tour of Tjolöholms Slott (Tjoloholm’s Castle)
Visit the Bath House at Varberg (Kalbadhuset Varberg) for a sauna and fika
Take a wander around either Lund or Helsingborg
Take a trip out to Varberg to dine at Spiseriet (for tables of less than 6 people, it is drop-ins only)
For seafood with a spectacular view, book in at Restaurant Salt. Several other dining options for Halmstad can be found here
Book in at Köket in Falkenberg, recommended by the White Guide
Day 8 - drive between Halmstad & Bohuslän
Make a pitstop at the café town of Alingsås, the Swedish Capital of Fika, for a wander around the town and its many cafes
About 300km, 3hrs 30mins driving
Bohuslän Coast - Day 8 to 13
Day 8 - arrive in Bohuslän
Settle in, buy supplies
Day 9 - Visit Orust Island coastal villages
Make day trips to visit a couple of the prize spots on the island of Orust:
Gullholmen just off Orust island - Much of the old characteristics is preserved with fishing huts in the hamlet. In summertime many boats spend some nights in the so much loved port. Only a few steps away is the island Härmano with a well known nature reserve with incredible beauty
Mollösund on Orust island - This was once the largest fishing centre on the Bohuslän peninsula and now, is transformed into a family-friendly summer holiday town with over one hundred moorings for seagoing visitors and along the quayside there are cafés, restaurants and piers with outdoor refreshments. Stay for an early dinner at Larsson’s fish in Mollösund and sit on a beautiful Bohuslän rock and enjoy the sunset in the west.
Day 10 - visit Tjorn Island
Book in to hike Tjorn island with ‘Meet The Locals’ guide
Have lunch or fika at Lottas Bak & Farm (Lotta’s Sourdough Bakery & Cafe). Open Wed-Fri 9am to 5pm, Sat 8am to 3pm, Sun 10am to 3pm.
Head to the Pilane outdoor sculpture park on Tjorn, open May to September from 9am to 7pm
Day 11 - Visit the ancient rock carvings at Tanum
Visit the Vitklycke Museum and rock carvings in Tanum, member part of the World Heritage list as an outstanding example of Bronze Age art. Visitors can either join a guided tour or follow the well-marked six kilometre path for an exploration of the many rock carvings at this site. Open 10am to 5pm June to August (more limited opening times April, May, Sept, Oct and Nov)
Day 12 - Hike Dyron Island
Hike Dyron Island boardwalk trail, ending with a stop at the public sauna
Finish the trip with a dinner at Brygghuset, Fiskebäckskil - multiple winner of the Whiskey Restaurant of the Year Award, and reputedly knowledgeable in all things seafood
Day 13 - final breakfast and head home
Have one final breakfast of coffee and kanelbulle (cinnamon bun)
Try to leave in the afternoon
Back-up plans for rainy days
Visit Nordic Watercolour Museum on Tjorn Island
Wander around Marstrand on Kungälv island
Sewing and Wearing
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