Ready-to-Wear Designer Analysis: a Y2K Acne oversized long-line shirt

Front

Side

Back

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Brand & Era

Acne

Y2K, 2013

Fabric type & weight

cotton poplin

estimate 140gsm

asymmetric pleats at button placket

godet at front for extra volume

godet attached with narrow French seam

11mm shell buttons on 2.8cm placket

split opening at back

yoke with extended shoulders

two-piece sleeve on dropped shoulder

flat-felled seam at armscye

super narrow 4mm double-fold hem

STYLE NOTES FOR A PETITE

This is not flattering on my petite frame - too much volume across the dropped shoulder, too much volume at the lower front, too much length overall in both bodice and sleeve.

It is the correct size for me (36) but it just goes to show why oversized is such a difficult silhouette to buy ready-made for a petite, particularly in designerwear, which seems to be sized for a 5’ 8” woman. Trying garments like this makes me more determined to get better and better at making my own oversized or loose-fitting garments.

Oversized is still a fit! Darts need to be in the right place, the volume needs to be proportionate, and it should all be balanced with subtle details that hint or show the figure underneath - such as cut-in shoulders, a tightly fitted cuff, a waist cut-out, or a bare arm or leg.

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