Sewing a boat neck summer dress with tie back in a novelty print cotton from Vogue 1102

TOTAL TIME COMMITMENT: 10.5 hours without toile (note this dress is unlined)

Cut out & transfer all pattern markings: 2.5 hours

Main construction: 6 hours

Lining construction: none

Finishings (hem): 2 hours



PATTERN CHANGES

None

SEAM FINISHING & DECORATIVE EXTRAS

  • Skirt side seams – French sea

  • Super narrow double-fold hem – beautiful finish

 

VERDICT & LESSONS LEARNT

The biggest lesson I learnt making this, is that sometimes, an adjustment for my narrow shoulders needs to come from the centre front, to bring both shoulders closer to one another, rather than simply making the shoulder seam itself thinner. The boat neckline of this dress should be ideal on me, but it’s much too wide, meaning the narrow shoulder sections want come in and settle further on my natural shoulder, creating a bunch of excess fabric at the centre neck. I also find that with this fit issue, the armscye is too far over onto my arm, restricting movement. None of this would be fixed by my narrowing, or even sloping the shoulder (common adjustments for me) – instead, this needs a narrowing of the whole neckline, then perhaps adding what I have narrowed, onto the side seam, to keep the overall correct width at the bust and underbust.

This is a full circle skirt and that can create a challenge for cutting out on a fabric which has a print with a very obvious right-way-up, as in this one here

 

VARIATION IDEAS FOR ANOTHER MAKE

  • Make this in linen, or a linen viscose blend


Travel Itineraries for Summerwear

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Sewing high-waisted trousers in smooth serge wool twill from 1970’s Vogue 1275 pattern

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Sewing a man’s shirt in grey wool flannel from Simplicity 8753