Sewing high-waisted trousers in smooth serge wool twill from 1970’s Vogue 1275 pattern
TOTAL TIME COMMITMENT: 9.5 hours, no toile (note these trousers are unlined)
Toile (without zip, buttons, lining, interior seam finishing, basting stitch removal or hemming): none
Cut out & transfer all pattern markings (both main fabric and lining): 1.5 hours
Main construction: 6.5 hours
Lining construction: none
Finishings (buttons, hem): 1.5 hours
PATTERN CHANGES
Increased zip length to 8” (for easier clearance over my hips)
SEAM FINISHING & DECORATIVE EXTRAS
Edgestitching at pocket opening
2 ½” hem, made using blind hem
Leg and crotch seams – overlock separately
Pocket bags – overlock together
VERDICT & LESSONS LEARNT
I need to be more careful and choosy about trousers with tucks:
- just because they fit at the waist, they may not be the best fit at the hips. The tucks need to have more room and ease to ‘billow’ over the hips and not cling. I have drafted a pattern with an extra 2 ½” at the hips
- when making a garment with these pleats/tucks, it may be better to fit them to have the waist band sit very slightly below my natural waist, to avoid the tucks ‘poofing’ over my stomach
This weight of wool, I am henceforth going to refer to a ‘trench weight’ wool. It is fine for use on some trousers and skirts, though better application would be a trench coat or a jacket. Its smooth and lovely to wear though, and I don’t find these trousers miss a lining.
VARIATION IDEAS FOR ANOTHER MAKE
Make in a very fluid fabric, such as a viscose crepe or viscose jacquard – should work really well with the pleats at the front, and especially if I lower the waist a teeny bit to sit just below my natural waist
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